Tips for changing/upgrading your 2005-2009 Mustang GT's clutch at home.

Image rights: https://www.edmunds.com/ford/mustang/2006

After spending a week on a two-day job, here's my breakdown and tips to help you get this job done as quickly and efficiently as possible.

This job was done at home on my 2006 Mustang GT, with a ClutchMax Stage 5 Clutch kit (Clutch, Flywheel, Pressure plate, Pilot bearing, Slave cylinder). Image (Non-affiliate eBay link): https://ebay.us/m/3pWcR4

Thankfully, it's a pretty straightforward job on these older Mustangs, so you should have most of the tools already. However, be sure to have: - Your average floor jack, breaker bar, torque wrench, spanner set, and socket set. - An additional 12-point socket set for the bolts holding the driveshaft. - A transmission attachment for your floor jack is really, really important. (WARNING: Attempting to lift it up or down with your regular floor jack attachment may result in transmission to the face or dropping the transmission.)

Generic floor jack attachment for transmissions.

- A pilot bearing tool is ideal. However, yes, you can use toast to get the pilot bearing off.

Generic pilot bearing puller.

- An impact wrench is a real game-changer for this job. - If you must use stands, 6-ton stands give you more room under the car. - Wear a high-quality respirator mask (P100) when dealing with clutch dust. It is very harmful. The mask should be around 20-30$. - Eye protection goggles are necessary for the same reason. They also prevent rust and dust from getting in your eyes when you're down there. Preparation: Draining the Trans: Before we get started removing anything, I highly recommend draining out your transmission first. Not only will this prevent mess and leakage when you bring it down, but it will also make the transmission a smidge lighter and easier to handle. It's really easy to fill it back up once reinstalled. Just remove the fill plug, and add fluid from the shifter till it starts flowing out of the fill plug. Since the transmission fluid was due for a change anyway, I put in Dexron IV. Ford recommends Mecron-V, but other online users appear to have used Halvoline, Royal Purple, Amsoil, even GM Syncromesh, and generic ATFs with no issues. Getting started: - Disconnect your battery's negative terminal. - Make sure to remove the shifter knob and boot before you get the car up. - Ideally, lift the car using a floor jack from the designated lift points at the front crash bars of the car. However, if yours is pretty low like mine, you may have to take off the bumper to gain access. - As always, jackstand safety guidelines (Read this article): Do not place jackstands on asphalt, ensure your jackstands are in the designated positions, and never use cinderblocks/wood or other non-standard objects to hold a vehicle up. - Depending on your exhaust, you may or may not have to take it off fully to take out the driveshaft/transmission. On mines, I had to take out everything after the pre-cat oxygen sensor. - The bolts holding in your driveshaft are 12-point. - While your driveshaft is off, it's a good measure to check your U-joint and CV-joint to make sure they aren't too worn. - Be sure to disconnect all cables and sensors connecting to the transmission before you unbolt it, for example, your VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor), and O2 sensors. - When you're disconnecting the clutch fluid line, be aware it is pressurized and may shoot out a little splurt. Cover it up with an appropriate plug immediately. You can use a hook-style tool to help you get the pin off. This is to prevent letting air into the system; also, the clutch fluid (which is also the brake fluid in this car) is very hydrophilic, meaning it can absorb water in the atmosphere. Both of which can lead to a plethora of issues. - You may use axle bearing grease on the input shaft. - Do check if your clutch comes greased or if you will have to grease it. Greasing your clutch appropriately can greatly increase its lifespan. Use a very small amount of moly-based high-temp grease. - Do make sure you have your pressure plate facing the right way. You should be provided with a photo guide or text from your provider or manufacturer. - After installation, start the car and hold in the clutch. If it is installed correctly, the clutch pedal should not stick to the floor. - Do note that your clutch's warranty may be void if you installed it without a supplied flywheel. - Your clutch's warranty may also be void if you've installed it incorrectly. - Break in your clutch by babying it for the first 500 miles. Refrain from racing, drifting, hard launches, or burnouts. Thank you for reading! If you have any questions, feel free to leave a reply, and I'll get back to you as soon as I can. Tips for changing 2005-2009 mustang clutch.